With spring coming insulation is not on the mind of a lot of people. But spring is a great time to get up in the attic, before that summer heat comes and install an additional layer of insulation to help keep the summer cooling bills down.
I think the best website for energy savings information is http://www.energystar.gov/. Simply put, whatever you need or want to know, you can find it here.
A much simpler, right to the point web site that will give you recommended insulating levels by zip code is http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/ins_16.html
In this area of the country the recommendations for insulation are;
Attic ---------------------------R 38
Wall ---------------------------R 13
Floor --------------------------R 25, Over Unheated Space
Crawl Space Wall ----------R 25
Basement Wall Interior ---R 11
The above recommendations are insulation levels that balance the actual cost of insulating and the return in energy savings.
Two methods of installing additional insulation in your attic are fiberglass batts or blown in insulation, either cellulose or fiberglass. In the fiberglass family batts give you a slightly better R value per inch coming in at 3.1 to 4.2 per inch and blown in fiberglass about 2.3 to 2.8 per inch. Cellulose is only available in loose fill and gives you about 3.0 per inch. If your choice is fiberglass batts and the existing insulation is even with the top of the existing ceiling joists then roll out 24” wide unfaced batts perpendicular to the existing joists. Doing it this way will physically cover the joists and seal any existing drafts. If the existing insulation is lower than the top of the joists add insulation until it is even with the joists and then begin the cross layer.
If you choose to use blown in, either cellulose or fiberglass make sure you install the depth gauges that you bought when you purchased the material, these will help you blow the material in evenly.
In either case you must first make sure that all electrical boxes have the proper covers and are sealed. Do not cover any light fixtures such as can lights.
One other caution is not to block the flow of air from the eves to the ridge of the house. The lower the pitch of your roof the easier it is to block the flow. Take a minute to study the drawing so you understand how air flows through your attic.
Keep in mind that houses need to breathe. The air in your home needs to change to keep a healthy indoor air environment. The measurement of air changes per hour ACH in older houses can be 1 to 3 whereas a newer tightly built home can be in the .5 ACH range. Trying to fix a target number of acceptable air changes is nearly impossible because of the wide range of pre-existing indoor air contaminants and pollutants. Factor into that an individual person’s sensitivity to these pollutants and you can see there is no way to recommend a level that would work in all situations
A great online source for understanding the basics of household ventilation can be found here http://www.nyserda.org/publications/guide.pdf
Also remember the better you home is insulated, the more critical controlling the humidity level becomes. We will talk about indoor humidity levels in a future posting.
This winter whenever I put the Christmas lights on and my wife uses the microwave it blows the fuse. I was going to put a bigger fuse in, but I thought I should ask first.
When homes were built years ago, they did not have electrical gadgets like microwaves, dishwashers, trash compacters and hair dryers and computers, just to name a few. Wiring a house was a simple matter, one circuit to the kitchen was enough, and the outside outlets were added onto wherever was the most convenient. Building codes today dictate the need for a dedicated circuit for the refrigerator, one for the microwave, one for the dishwasher, and one for the counter outlets. The best solution for you would be to have a qualified electricial contractor install a new dedicated outlet for your microwave. I would also have him check the load on the other circuits to make sure you are in the safe range, so when you add the revolving Santa and his sleigh next winter you will not be right back where you started from.
If you needed heart surgery would you ever consider asking 3 surgeons to submit bids and then select the lowest one? The rhetorical answer is of course not. However many home owners think nothing of shelling pout thousands of dollars and opening up their home to a remodeler they selected solely on his price.
Granted a remodeling project is not a life threatening operation. But it could have a definite effect on the families well being and financial health for years to come. Many factors other than price need to be considered before you can find the best contractor for a specific project.
A common tactic is to solicit three remodelers for bids. The homeowner will throw out the high and low bids and select the middle bid, confident he has minimized the risk by dropping the 2 extremes. Price drives the selection.
No job interview begins by negotiating salary and a remodeling project should not be any different. Before you get to compensation you should make sure you have a qualified applicant. One of the first things you do is to check references. It is important that you talk to people who have hired this remodeler to do jobs similar to yours. A beautifully remodeled kitchen or bath sheds little light on his ability to build a second floor addition to your home. You’ll want to ask the references if they had any problems with quality, payment schedule, employees or completion time.
The most telltale question you can ask is “Would you hire this remodeler again?” Some people will be hesitant to make negative comments, but the enthusiasm in which they answer this question is bound to tell you all you need to know about this remodeler.
After you have talked with the references, take a look at their work. Check out the quality of the craftsmanship and materials, overall aesthetics, creativity and how the project blends in with the rest of the house.
Also verify the remodelers licensing if required in your city/state and insurance. If you hire a remodeler who does not carry workers compensation insurance and one of his employees gets injured on the job, you could be liable for medical bills and lost wages.
One indication of a professional remodeler is membership in professional trade associations such as NAHBRC, National Association of Home Builders Remodelers Council or affiliated local association. A fly by night operator is not going to leave a paper trail by joining a professional trade association.
Another good indication of a professional remodeler is the type of warranty offered. Most remodelers offer some type of warranty. But remember a warranty is only as good as the company backing it.
Once you have done your homework and feel confident that the remodeler has a proven track record of quality and service, and then it is time to discuss the projects details and price.
As with most job applicants the decision may come down to feeling comfortable with the remodeler and being able to easily communicate with them. The remodeler is going to spend many hours in your home so it’s important you feel comfortable with them from the onset of the project. You should be able to work together with him combining your ideas and his expertise to turn your vision into a final project.
Now that you feel comfortable with the remodeler I would strongly suggest that you share your budget number with him. Your budget is not what the project will cost but is the money you have available to spend on the project. Most people are reluctant to share this budget number with the remodeler, fearing the remodeler will find a way to spend it all. If you have done your homework correctly, you should trust your remodeler, and you should realize that sharing the budget number with him will allow all of you to be on the same page. This fact combined with a professional remodeler’s knowledge of general costs will ensure you don’t plan too much project for your budget.
When you purchase a new car you get to see it first, you get to drive it and see how it feels. With a remodeling project, you’re purchasing a concept and you will not see the final product until after the contract is signed sealed and delivered.
This is the reason shopping works for a new car but not for a remodeling project. You can ask three dealers to price a specific make and model car and be fairly certain you are comparing apples to apples, but with remodeling the products can differ significantly.
There can be many reasons for a lowball bid including shoddy materials, poor craftsmanship, inadequate safety precautions, and lack of insurance and licensing, or the bid may be from a remodeler who has never completed a project like yours before and just missed some things.
When you have selected a remodeler to ask for a bid, make sure the bid and eventual contract is as thorough as possible, including material brand names and model numbers, allowances, total cost, payout schedule, procedure for change orders and completion date. If you ask for a penalty clause in case the project runs over be prepared to offer an incentive if it is finished ahead of time. Also remember most change orders will add days to the completion schedule.
If you have shared your budget and worked together effectively in the design and specification portion of the process then the actual contract price should not be a shock. It is the remodelers’ responsibility if at all possible to control the scope of the project to a level that works within your budget. That may mean giving up those custom cabinets for standard cabinets, a vinyl laminate floor instead of real hardwood, or Formica counter tops instead of granite.
Quality is never cheap and good research may seem like a headache. But see what an expensive headache really is by having a low ball bidder take the roof off your house, disconnect the plumbing from your house and leave no forwarding address as he skips out on the project.
I want to open up my kitchen to the living room and a friend told me to first check if it is load bearing? What is that and can I still do it if it is?
Load bearing walls are just that, they bear the load of floors/ceilings above and/or roofs. There are main or direct load bearing walls and tributary load bearing walls. In a simple design such as a basic rectangular ranch with a gable style roof the walls with the gutters bear most of the weight. The end or gable walls are for the most part non load bearing, but depending on interior framing they can be carrying roof load from the ridge. Another factor that determines load is if the roof was “stick built” or built with trusses. Stick built houses allow some of the roof weight to be transferred to interior walls, while truss built roofs transfer the load through their design to the exterior walls. In a house with a hip roof (gutters all sides) all exterior walls share some of the load. In simple designs there is usually a wall running down the center of the long axis of the house, and this is usually a load bearing wall because the ridge (centerline) of the roof is being directly supported by does the distinction between load and non load bearing walls. This is not a job for amateurs; I would strongly recommend hiring a professional to complete the structural part of this project. IA list of qualified and competent builders and remodelers can be obtained from your local Home Builders Association, or you can contact me and I will recommend someone in your area.
I have some moisture inside the glass of my family room windows, what do I have to do to fix it?
If the moisture is trapped between the glass panes you have thermo pane style windows. Thermo pane windows are constructed of 2 pieces of glass banded together at the edges with a space between them. The air in that space is vacuumed out and in many cases replaced with a type of gas that retards the transfer of heat and cold. In time that seal can be broken allowing air to enter into that space and along with that air comes moisture. The only remedy is to replace the glass. Many window manufacturers offer replacement sashes. A sash is the glass and the surrounding frame. If you cannot find the manufacturer then try a company that installs shower doors and mirrors, they usually can get the replacement glass. If you prefer to contact me directly I can recommend someone to replace the glass for you.
