Can I Knock Out This Wall?

I want to open up my kitchen to the living room and a friend told me to first check if it is load bearing? What is that and can I still do it if it is?

Load bearing walls are just that, they bear the load of floors/ceilings above and/or roofs. There are main or direct load bearing walls and tributary load bearing walls. In a simple design such as a basic rectangular ranch with a gable style roof the walls with the gutters bear most of the weight. The end or gable walls are for the most part non load bearing, but depending on interior framing they can be carrying roof load from the ridge. Another factor that determines load is if the roof was “stick built” or built with trusses. Stick built houses allow some of the roof weight to be transferred to interior walls, while truss built roofs transfer the load through their design to the exterior walls. In a house with a hip roof (gutters all sides) all exterior walls share some of the load. In simple designs there is usually a wall running down the center of the long axis of the house, and this is usually a load bearing wall because the ridge (centerline) of the roof is being directly supported by does the distinction between load and non load bearing walls. This is not a job for amateurs; I would strongly recommend hiring a professional to complete the structural part of this project. IA list of qualified and competent builders and remodelers can be obtained from your local Home Builders Association, or you can contact me and I will recommend someone in your area.

Building a Soffet Quickly and Easily

Many do it yourselfers tackle finishing a basement as a project. One of the challenges when remodeling a basement is building around those heat ducts or other low hanging objects. Some do it yourselfers take the time to build a small wall similiar to framing the perimeter wall, carefully nailing each piece together hoping the short pieces don't crack.
There is an easier way to build those soffets when you are remodeling your basement. Measure the distance from the bottom of the floor joist and the bottom of the low hanging object, making sure to measure in multiple locations as some objects are hung with a slope. Lets say the bottom of the heat duct is 10", now add 2" to your measured dimension, for a total of 12". Take a sheet of 1/2 plwwood, I strongly suggest you use OSB as it will not curl or cup as conventional plywood. Rip it to 12" and cut it to length. Take 2 pieces of 2x2 cut to the same length as the plywood and lay them across the saw horses and set the plywood on top of them pulling each 2x2 flush to each edge. I suggest using 1 5/8" drywall screws to attach the plywood to one of the 2x2's. Only attach 1 of the 2x2's to the plywood and set it aside.
Using a chalkline snap a line on the bottom of the floor joists flush with the outside edge of where the soffet needs to be installed and another line 1/2" back from that line. Nail or screw the remaining 2x2 to the inside line, the one you set back 1/2". After you have secured it to the floor joists above slide the plywood soffet panel you made earlier against the 2x2 lining it up with the outside line you snapped and secure it with 1 5/8" drywall screws.
Repeat the process for the other side if it is a 2 sided soffet. Using a level plumb both panels and draw a line on the intersecting wall. While holding the side panels to the plumb lines measure the distance between the bottom 2x2's and cut the necessary 2x4's to length using 16" o.c. measurements. Making your 16" o.c. on the outside plywood panels. Predrill 2 holes for each 2x4 and secure them with 3" or 3 1/2" drywall screws.
Remember the 2" you added, that was 1 1/2" for the 2x4 and 1/2" room to play space. You can cut a shim and slide it between each 2x4 and the duct, near mid span, and secure itwith a screw, making sure your soffet is plumb. Be sure to cover both sides of the shim with construction adhesive before you slide it into place as this will help to eliminate any future squeaking or duct flexing.
If your soffet span is longer than 8' I suggest you use a 10' - 2x2 or slide an 8' 2x2 past the end of the first piece of plywood by 2' and later fill in a 2' piece on the back end. This method will help to keep the joint straight.
Well, there you have it a straight and easy soffet, for your basement remodeling project. If you have any questions on any phase of remodeling or new construction feel free to use the comment section.