Saturday, October 16, 2010
Properly Installing a Shower Base
The whole idea behind 1 piece shower stalls is no joints no leaks, right? Where there is water it will leak!
Once again we see that improper installation techniques cause a water leaking problem.
The less expensive shower bases are thinner and tend to flex when you move around on the shower floor and since the drain in these units is actually friction fit, so water can seep through and cause a problem.
The friction fit is actually a good idea because there will always be a different rate of movement between the shower base, the structural floor, and the drain piping. The drain pipe for the shower is usually a 1 ½” or 2” PVC pipe that slips through a rubber sleeve attached to the bottom of the shower base.
The problem in this case is that the floor of the shower unit actually flexes because of the lack of support from the bottom.
The proper method for installing the shower pan is to place it in a “bed” of mortar or similar acting product that will effectively cradle it and keep it from moving. My favorite product to do this is spray foam for a couple reasons. It creates the “bed” but it also deadens the sound and acts as an insulator so as not to conduct cold onto the base itself.
You must dry fit the shower base first to make sure everything lines up because once you set it in the foam you won’t get it back up.
To figure the thickness of the “bed” you need to lay the shower base upside down on carpet or some other soft surface as not to scratch it. Place a straight edge or level across the bottom and measure down to the floor of the unit. Add about ¾” to that measurement to get the thickness of the bed you need to put down.
When you have completed your dry fit you are ready to lay your “bed” down and place your base down. Simply spray the foam down on the floor and when it is built up to the desired height and coverage (generally 50% of the total area) place the base into it. Press firmly, but do not step into it or push down aggressively or you could cause a gap to form. Leave it sit for the recommended drying time on the “bed” product you have used and you are good to go.
OK Fine John but mine is already installed what can I do now to keep it from leaking??
Remove the drain gate, usually snaps in and out. Clean the area around the joint between the fiberglass base and the rubber gasket. You may need to use a putty knife. Then wipe it clean with nail polish remover, or other degreaser type of cleaner. Be careful it will not discolor fiberglass or PVC.
Now using a flashlight look into the drain not too far down you will see the actual drain pipe itself and looking carefully you can see the rubber sleeve just to the outside of it. Clean the top edge of the pipe and the sleeve right above it very good.
Using some 100% silicone, I recommend GE brand, run a bead around the top edge of the pipe onto the sleeve and another bead on the top where the gasket meets the base. Moisten your finger with a little water and smooth out the bead, not too much, just make sure it is sealed all the way around.
Let it dry for the recommended time and snap the drain in and you are good to go.
Friday, September 10, 2010
20 Year Old Roof, What do I do
Hey John,
I have a 20 year old house and know that it will have to be replaced soon. Should the roofer do a tearoff or just lay new shingles on top of the old?
Audrey,
Depends on what is on there already. If there is only 1 layer of shingles and they are not curled badly then it is ok to go right over them. On an older roof such as yours you do not have the new ice and water shield, which would be installed if they were stripping it. If your roof is a simple hip or gable without a lot of ice traps and if you have no leaks now, then I would say just go over it.
On the other hand if you have 2 layers already then you must have it stripped. Make sure the roofing contractor installs ice and water shield in all valleys and along the gutter edge.
Ice and water shield is a rubber membrane 3'wide and in rolls of approximately 50'. It has adhesive on 1 side to stick to the roof then shingles are placed over that. You do not want to put it over the entire roof because rubber doesn't breathe and the roof needs to breathe. While they are at it make sure you have adequate attic ventilation, 1 sq ft (1 square vent you see on the roof) per every 150 sq ft of attic floor. Hope that answers your question. If not write back
I have a 20 year old house and know that it will have to be replaced soon. Should the roofer do a tearoff or just lay new shingles on top of the old?
Audrey,
Depends on what is on there already. If there is only 1 layer of shingles and they are not curled badly then it is ok to go right over them. On an older roof such as yours you do not have the new ice and water shield, which would be installed if they were stripping it. If your roof is a simple hip or gable without a lot of ice traps and if you have no leaks now, then I would say just go over it.
On the other hand if you have 2 layers already then you must have it stripped. Make sure the roofing contractor installs ice and water shield in all valleys and along the gutter edge.
Ice and water shield is a rubber membrane 3'wide and in rolls of approximately 50'. It has adhesive on 1 side to stick to the roof then shingles are placed over that. You do not want to put it over the entire roof because rubber doesn't breathe and the roof needs to breathe. While they are at it make sure you have adequate attic ventilation, 1 sq ft (1 square vent you see on the roof) per every 150 sq ft of attic floor. Hope that answers your question. If not write back
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Bulb Wars
Let’s do a comparison of Edison’s favorite, the incandescent bulb, versus the new CFL .
Incandescent bulbs cost on average $0.50 apiece while CFL’s (compact fluorescent) cost on average $2.50 apiece. Quite a bit of difference, but the longevity of an incandescent bulb is on average 750 to 1000 hours, whereas the CFL is 10,000 to 15,000 hours. Pretty much a no brainer as to which one is the better bargain to purchase.
Now let’s look at the energy usage. A typical incandescent bulb you might have in a lamp is 60 watts while a similar CFL is 15 watts. That is a whopping 75% savings in watts used per bulb.
To figure the savings we have to make certain assumptions. The average house has 30 bulbs, and average usage of 5 hours per day. With those assumptions you can save on average $6.00 per bulb per year. That is a household savings of approximately $180 per year just changing bulbs. The costs of the bulbs are already factored in.
Here is something to think about if you have a business, or commercial building. Wouldn’t you rather pay someone once every 4.5 years rather than 2 or 3 times a year to change those bulbs?
Now the real wave of the future is LED lights, although their cost is very high, coming in at $40 to compare to our above examples. They run at about a tenth the cost of an incandescent and a little less than ½ of the CFL, coming in at a little less than $1.00 per bulb per year. LED’s are rated at 50,000 hours of usage, roughly 5 times that of a CFL.
Saying all that before you all run out to change bulbs, know that the incandescent bulbs project light farther and colors are viewed better under them. So changing them in the hall may be ok but not in my favorite reading area or my home decorating business office.
One bonus of CFL’s or LED’s are if you are thinking about or have solar panels or other green energy sources the reduced wattage will reduce the amount of panels you need, and that can be a big savings.
I hope I have shed some light…. On a sometimes confusing subject.
Incandescent bulbs cost on average $0.50 apiece while CFL’s (compact fluorescent) cost on average $2.50 apiece. Quite a bit of difference, but the longevity of an incandescent bulb is on average 750 to 1000 hours, whereas the CFL is 10,000 to 15,000 hours. Pretty much a no brainer as to which one is the better bargain to purchase.
Now let’s look at the energy usage. A typical incandescent bulb you might have in a lamp is 60 watts while a similar CFL is 15 watts. That is a whopping 75% savings in watts used per bulb.
To figure the savings we have to make certain assumptions. The average house has 30 bulbs, and average usage of 5 hours per day. With those assumptions you can save on average $6.00 per bulb per year. That is a household savings of approximately $180 per year just changing bulbs. The costs of the bulbs are already factored in.
Here is something to think about if you have a business, or commercial building. Wouldn’t you rather pay someone once every 4.5 years rather than 2 or 3 times a year to change those bulbs?
Now the real wave of the future is LED lights, although their cost is very high, coming in at $40 to compare to our above examples. They run at about a tenth the cost of an incandescent and a little less than ½ of the CFL, coming in at a little less than $1.00 per bulb per year. LED’s are rated at 50,000 hours of usage, roughly 5 times that of a CFL.
Saying all that before you all run out to change bulbs, know that the incandescent bulbs project light farther and colors are viewed better under them. So changing them in the hall may be ok but not in my favorite reading area or my home decorating business office.
One bonus of CFL’s or LED’s are if you are thinking about or have solar panels or other green energy sources the reduced wattage will reduce the amount of panels you need, and that can be a big savings.
I hope I have shed some light…. On a sometimes confusing subject.
Thursday, July 29, 2010
TV Home Improvement Shows Hazardous To Your Health
If you are an average person thinking about starting a remodeling project in your home you might tune into one of those home remodeling shows that are available, many on Saturday mornings. There you would see an entire kitchen or bath totally gutted and remodeled within the hour. After watching it you might think….This is a snap, it’s easy, I can do this next weekend! ……..Better Think Again.
These “weekend projects” involve a lot more than 2 days and a trip to the local home improvement store. In this article I will outline the steps necessary to complete a project that those shows don’t tell you about.
Once the project has been identified you need see what similar projects cost so you will know if your project will fit within your budget. To accomplish this you should visit Remodeling magazines web site and go to the section that has the “cost vs. value report. Make sure you adjust it for the Midwest region. http://www.remodeling.hw.net/2009/costvsvalue/national.aspx This annual report will give you a very good idea of the cost of your project.
To begin with you should complete a needs and use assessment. This assessment will help define the parameters of the project. What do you need (different from what you want or wish it to have) from the finished project and does your plan address all those needs.
Next you should create drawings of the project. Even if you are not artistic you need to complete this step as it will force you to think of areas of the project that you may have overlooked.
Your next step should be to make your product selections, and make sure they fit into the budget. When making product selections be cautious of finishes of various components, such as shower door, vanity faucet, toilet trim and door handles, to make sure they are the same. The same finish can have different names depending on the manufacturer. If you are putting the project out to bid remember to write construction specifications defining things like wall insulation, type of paint, style and color of electrical devices, etc.
Once you have all this information you are ready to have the project bid. My advice for you is a little different than some others. I suggest you interview 2 or 3 contractors, and talk to their references. When you find the contractor that you are comfortable with, ask him to bid the project, according to your specifications. You already know what the project should cost, so you are protected from that standpoint. Don’t make the mistake of squeezing every last dollar out of your contractor. They have to make a profit to stay in business and if you squeeze him too much he will have to cut corners, which is something you don’t want to happen. If you are using a contractor all you have to do is turn him loose.
If on the other hand you are doing the project yourself, select a starting date when you can dedicate 2 or 3 full days to the project. Trust me; things always take longer than you think. I remember when I was first starting out in the business; I would bid the job and always be over on actual time. This happened over and over. I asked a friend of mine who had been in business for a while to have a look at my estimating technique. He spotted the problem right away. You did not include any time for setup, breakdown, jobsite cleanup, buying or stocking the job with material. All these things take time to do and they are part of the job. The lesson here is add time into your schedule for these things.
If after reading this you feel overwhelmed and you need help in this process, I am available to guide you through it, with my project consulting services. I can complete the drawings, and specifications for you and/or I can be available to visit your project and walk through it with you, answering your questions, so you can complete them yourself. As the project proceeds, I am available by phone to answer questions as they come up, or possible job site visits.Contact me for more details about your individual project.
I hope after reading this you understand that it is not as easy as it appears on TV, and it takes a lot of planning and follow through. Following the above steps will ease the stress level that is associated with home remodeling projects.
John Knoelk CGR, CGB
Resourses:
Remodeling Magazine http://www.remodeling.hw.net/
These “weekend projects” involve a lot more than 2 days and a trip to the local home improvement store. In this article I will outline the steps necessary to complete a project that those shows don’t tell you about.
Once the project has been identified you need see what similar projects cost so you will know if your project will fit within your budget. To accomplish this you should visit Remodeling magazines web site and go to the section that has the “cost vs. value report. Make sure you adjust it for the Midwest region. http://www.remodeling.hw.net/2009/costvsvalue/national.aspx This annual report will give you a very good idea of the cost of your project.
To begin with you should complete a needs and use assessment. This assessment will help define the parameters of the project. What do you need (different from what you want or wish it to have) from the finished project and does your plan address all those needs.
Next you should create drawings of the project. Even if you are not artistic you need to complete this step as it will force you to think of areas of the project that you may have overlooked.
Your next step should be to make your product selections, and make sure they fit into the budget. When making product selections be cautious of finishes of various components, such as shower door, vanity faucet, toilet trim and door handles, to make sure they are the same. The same finish can have different names depending on the manufacturer. If you are putting the project out to bid remember to write construction specifications defining things like wall insulation, type of paint, style and color of electrical devices, etc.
Once you have all this information you are ready to have the project bid. My advice for you is a little different than some others. I suggest you interview 2 or 3 contractors, and talk to their references. When you find the contractor that you are comfortable with, ask him to bid the project, according to your specifications. You already know what the project should cost, so you are protected from that standpoint. Don’t make the mistake of squeezing every last dollar out of your contractor. They have to make a profit to stay in business and if you squeeze him too much he will have to cut corners, which is something you don’t want to happen. If you are using a contractor all you have to do is turn him loose.
If on the other hand you are doing the project yourself, select a starting date when you can dedicate 2 or 3 full days to the project. Trust me; things always take longer than you think. I remember when I was first starting out in the business; I would bid the job and always be over on actual time. This happened over and over. I asked a friend of mine who had been in business for a while to have a look at my estimating technique. He spotted the problem right away. You did not include any time for setup, breakdown, jobsite cleanup, buying or stocking the job with material. All these things take time to do and they are part of the job. The lesson here is add time into your schedule for these things.
If after reading this you feel overwhelmed and you need help in this process, I am available to guide you through it, with my project consulting services. I can complete the drawings, and specifications for you and/or I can be available to visit your project and walk through it with you, answering your questions, so you can complete them yourself. As the project proceeds, I am available by phone to answer questions as they come up, or possible job site visits.Contact me for more details about your individual project.
I hope after reading this you understand that it is not as easy as it appears on TV, and it takes a lot of planning and follow through. Following the above steps will ease the stress level that is associated with home remodeling projects.
John Knoelk CGR, CGB
Resourses:
Remodeling Magazine http://www.remodeling.hw.net/
Friday, March 12, 2010
Great Time To Start Thinking About Insulating
With spring coming insulation is not on the mind of a lot of people. But spring is a great time to get up in the attic, before that summer heat comes and install an additional layer of insulation to help keep the summer cooling bills down.
I think the best website for energy savings information is http://www.energystar.gov/. Simply put, whatever you need or want to know, you can find it here.
A much simpler, right to the point web site that will give you recommended insulating levels by zip code is http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/ins_16.html
In this area of the country the recommendations for insulation are;
Attic ---------------------------R 38
Wall ---------------------------R 13
Floor --------------------------R 25, Over Unheated Space
Crawl Space Wall ----------R 25
Basement Wall Interior ---R 11
The above recommendations are insulation levels that balance the actual cost of insulating and the return in energy savings.
Two methods of installing additional insulation in your attic are fiberglass batts or blown in insulation, either cellulose or fiberglass. In the fiberglass family batts give you a slightly better R value per inch coming in at 3.1 to 4.2 per inch and blown in fiberglass about 2.3 to 2.8 per inch. Cellulose is only available in loose fill and gives you about 3.0 per inch. If your choice is fiberglass batts and the existing insulation is even with the top of the existing ceiling joists then roll out 24” wide unfaced batts perpendicular to the existing joists. Doing it this way will physically cover the joists and seal any existing drafts. If the existing insulation is lower than the top of the joists add insulation until it is even with the joists and then begin the cross layer.
If you choose to use blown in, either cellulose or fiberglass make sure you install the depth gauges that you bought when you purchased the material, these will help you blow the material in evenly.
In either case you must first make sure that all electrical boxes have the proper covers and are sealed. Do not cover any light fixtures such as can lights.
One other caution is not to block the flow of air from the eves to the ridge of the house. The lower the pitch of your roof the easier it is to block the flow. Take a minute to study the drawing so you understand how air flows through your attic.
Keep in mind that houses need to breathe. The air in your home needs to change to keep a healthy indoor air environment. The measurement of air changes per hour ACH in older houses can be 1 to 3 whereas a newer tightly built home can be in the .5 ACH range. Trying to fix a target number of acceptable air changes is nearly impossible because of the wide range of pre-existing indoor air contaminants and pollutants. Factor into that an individual person’s sensitivity to these pollutants and you can see there is no way to recommend a level that would work in all situations
A great online source for understanding the basics of household ventilation can be found here http://www.nyserda.org/publications/guide.pdf
Also remember the better you home is insulated, the more critical controlling the humidity level becomes. We will talk about indoor humidity levels in a future posting.
I think the best website for energy savings information is http://www.energystar.gov/. Simply put, whatever you need or want to know, you can find it here.
A much simpler, right to the point web site that will give you recommended insulating levels by zip code is http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/ins_16.html
In this area of the country the recommendations for insulation are;
Attic ---------------------------R 38
Wall ---------------------------R 13
Floor --------------------------R 25, Over Unheated Space
Crawl Space Wall ----------R 25
Basement Wall Interior ---R 11
The above recommendations are insulation levels that balance the actual cost of insulating and the return in energy savings.
Two methods of installing additional insulation in your attic are fiberglass batts or blown in insulation, either cellulose or fiberglass. In the fiberglass family batts give you a slightly better R value per inch coming in at 3.1 to 4.2 per inch and blown in fiberglass about 2.3 to 2.8 per inch. Cellulose is only available in loose fill and gives you about 3.0 per inch. If your choice is fiberglass batts and the existing insulation is even with the top of the existing ceiling joists then roll out 24” wide unfaced batts perpendicular to the existing joists. Doing it this way will physically cover the joists and seal any existing drafts. If the existing insulation is lower than the top of the joists add insulation until it is even with the joists and then begin the cross layer.
In either case you must first make sure that all electrical boxes have the proper covers and are sealed. Do not cover any light fixtures such as can lights.
One other caution is not to block the flow of air from the eves to the ridge of the house. The lower the pitch of your roof the easier it is to block the flow. Take a minute to study the drawing so you understand how air flows through your attic.
A great online source for understanding the basics of household ventilation can be found here http://www.nyserda.org/publications/guide.pdf
Also remember the better you home is insulated, the more critical controlling the humidity level becomes. We will talk about indoor humidity levels in a future posting.
Thursday, March 11, 2010
Why Do I Keep Blowing Fuses
This winter whenever I put the Christmas lights on and my wife uses the microwave it blows the fuse. I was going to put a bigger fuse in, but I thought I should ask first.
When homes were built years ago, they did not have electrical gadgets like microwaves, dishwashers, trash compacters and hair dryers and computers, just to name a few. Wiring a house was a simple matter, one circuit to the kitchen was enough, and the outside outlets were added onto wherever was the most convenient. Building codes today dictate the need for a dedicated circuit for the refrigerator, one for the microwave, one for the dishwasher, and one for the counter outlets. The best solution for you would be to have a qualified electricial contractor install a new dedicated outlet for your microwave. I would also have him check the load on the other circuits to make sure you are in the safe range, so when you add the revolving Santa and his sleigh next winter you will not be right back where you started from.
When homes were built years ago, they did not have electrical gadgets like microwaves, dishwashers, trash compacters and hair dryers and computers, just to name a few. Wiring a house was a simple matter, one circuit to the kitchen was enough, and the outside outlets were added onto wherever was the most convenient. Building codes today dictate the need for a dedicated circuit for the refrigerator, one for the microwave, one for the dishwasher, and one for the counter outlets. The best solution for you would be to have a qualified electricial contractor install a new dedicated outlet for your microwave. I would also have him check the load on the other circuits to make sure you are in the safe range, so when you add the revolving Santa and his sleigh next winter you will not be right back where you started from.
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Destroying The 3 Bid Myth
If you needed heart surgery would you ever consider asking 3 surgeons to submit bids and then select the lowest one? The rhetorical answer is of course not. However many home owners think nothing of shelling pout thousands of dollars and opening up their home to a remodeler they selected solely on his price.
Granted a remodeling project is not a life threatening operation. But it could have a definite effect on the families well being and financial health for years to come. Many factors other than price need to be considered before you can find the best contractor for a specific project.
A common tactic is to solicit three remodelers for bids. The homeowner will throw out the high and low bids and select the middle bid, confident he has minimized the risk by dropping the 2 extremes. Price drives the selection.
No job interview begins by negotiating salary and a remodeling project should not be any different. Before you get to compensation you should make sure you have a qualified applicant. One of the first things you do is to check references. It is important that you talk to people who have hired this remodeler to do jobs similar to yours. A beautifully remodeled kitchen or bath sheds little light on his ability to build a second floor addition to your home. You’ll want to ask the references if they had any problems with quality, payment schedule, employees or completion time.
The most telltale question you can ask is “Would you hire this remodeler again?” Some people will be hesitant to make negative comments, but the enthusiasm in which they answer this question is bound to tell you all you need to know about this remodeler.
After you have talked with the references, take a look at their work. Check out the quality of the craftsmanship and materials, overall aesthetics, creativity and how the project blends in with the rest of the house.
Also verify the remodelers licensing if required in your city/state and insurance. If you hire a remodeler who does not carry workers compensation insurance and one of his employees gets injured on the job, you could be liable for medical bills and lost wages.
One indication of a professional remodeler is membership in professional trade associations such as NAHBRC, National Association of Home Builders Remodelers Council or affiliated local association. A fly by night operator is not going to leave a paper trail by joining a professional trade association.
Another good indication of a professional remodeler is the type of warranty offered. Most remodelers offer some type of warranty. But remember a warranty is only as good as the company backing it.
Once you have done your homework and feel confident that the remodeler has a proven track record of quality and service, and then it is time to discuss the projects details and price.
As with most job applicants the decision may come down to feeling comfortable with the remodeler and being able to easily communicate with them. The remodeler is going to spend many hours in your home so it’s important you feel comfortable with them from the onset of the project. You should be able to work together with him combining your ideas and his expertise to turn your vision into a final project.
Now that you feel comfortable with the remodeler I would strongly suggest that you share your budget number with him. Your budget is not what the project will cost but is the money you have available to spend on the project. Most people are reluctant to share this budget number with the remodeler, fearing the remodeler will find a way to spend it all. If you have done your homework correctly, you should trust your remodeler, and you should realize that sharing the budget number with him will allow all of you to be on the same page. This fact combined with a professional remodeler’s knowledge of general costs will ensure you don’t plan too much project for your budget.
When you purchase a new car you get to see it first, you get to drive it and see how it feels. With a remodeling project, you’re purchasing a concept and you will not see the final product until after the contract is signed sealed and delivered.
This is the reason shopping works for a new car but not for a remodeling project. You can ask three dealers to price a specific make and model car and be fairly certain you are comparing apples to apples, but with remodeling the products can differ significantly.
There can be many reasons for a lowball bid including shoddy materials, poor craftsmanship, inadequate safety precautions, and lack of insurance and licensing, or the bid may be from a remodeler who has never completed a project like yours before and just missed some things.
When you have selected a remodeler to ask for a bid, make sure the bid and eventual contract is as thorough as possible, including material brand names and model numbers, allowances, total cost, payout schedule, procedure for change orders and completion date. If you ask for a penalty clause in case the project runs over be prepared to offer an incentive if it is finished ahead of time. Also remember most change orders will add days to the completion schedule.
If you have shared your budget and worked together effectively in the design and specification portion of the process then the actual contract price should not be a shock. It is the remodelers’ responsibility if at all possible to control the scope of the project to a level that works within your budget. That may mean giving up those custom cabinets for standard cabinets, a vinyl laminate floor instead of real hardwood, or Formica counter tops instead of granite.
Quality is never cheap and good research may seem like a headache. But see what an expensive headache really is by having a low ball bidder take the roof off your house, disconnect the plumbing from your house and leave no forwarding address as he skips out on the project.
Granted a remodeling project is not a life threatening operation. But it could have a definite effect on the families well being and financial health for years to come. Many factors other than price need to be considered before you can find the best contractor for a specific project.
A common tactic is to solicit three remodelers for bids. The homeowner will throw out the high and low bids and select the middle bid, confident he has minimized the risk by dropping the 2 extremes. Price drives the selection.
No job interview begins by negotiating salary and a remodeling project should not be any different. Before you get to compensation you should make sure you have a qualified applicant. One of the first things you do is to check references. It is important that you talk to people who have hired this remodeler to do jobs similar to yours. A beautifully remodeled kitchen or bath sheds little light on his ability to build a second floor addition to your home. You’ll want to ask the references if they had any problems with quality, payment schedule, employees or completion time.
The most telltale question you can ask is “Would you hire this remodeler again?” Some people will be hesitant to make negative comments, but the enthusiasm in which they answer this question is bound to tell you all you need to know about this remodeler.
After you have talked with the references, take a look at their work. Check out the quality of the craftsmanship and materials, overall aesthetics, creativity and how the project blends in with the rest of the house.
Also verify the remodelers licensing if required in your city/state and insurance. If you hire a remodeler who does not carry workers compensation insurance and one of his employees gets injured on the job, you could be liable for medical bills and lost wages.
One indication of a professional remodeler is membership in professional trade associations such as NAHBRC, National Association of Home Builders Remodelers Council or affiliated local association. A fly by night operator is not going to leave a paper trail by joining a professional trade association.
Another good indication of a professional remodeler is the type of warranty offered. Most remodelers offer some type of warranty. But remember a warranty is only as good as the company backing it.
Once you have done your homework and feel confident that the remodeler has a proven track record of quality and service, and then it is time to discuss the projects details and price.
As with most job applicants the decision may come down to feeling comfortable with the remodeler and being able to easily communicate with them. The remodeler is going to spend many hours in your home so it’s important you feel comfortable with them from the onset of the project. You should be able to work together with him combining your ideas and his expertise to turn your vision into a final project.
Now that you feel comfortable with the remodeler I would strongly suggest that you share your budget number with him. Your budget is not what the project will cost but is the money you have available to spend on the project. Most people are reluctant to share this budget number with the remodeler, fearing the remodeler will find a way to spend it all. If you have done your homework correctly, you should trust your remodeler, and you should realize that sharing the budget number with him will allow all of you to be on the same page. This fact combined with a professional remodeler’s knowledge of general costs will ensure you don’t plan too much project for your budget.
When you purchase a new car you get to see it first, you get to drive it and see how it feels. With a remodeling project, you’re purchasing a concept and you will not see the final product until after the contract is signed sealed and delivered.
This is the reason shopping works for a new car but not for a remodeling project. You can ask three dealers to price a specific make and model car and be fairly certain you are comparing apples to apples, but with remodeling the products can differ significantly.
There can be many reasons for a lowball bid including shoddy materials, poor craftsmanship, inadequate safety precautions, and lack of insurance and licensing, or the bid may be from a remodeler who has never completed a project like yours before and just missed some things.
When you have selected a remodeler to ask for a bid, make sure the bid and eventual contract is as thorough as possible, including material brand names and model numbers, allowances, total cost, payout schedule, procedure for change orders and completion date. If you ask for a penalty clause in case the project runs over be prepared to offer an incentive if it is finished ahead of time. Also remember most change orders will add days to the completion schedule.
If you have shared your budget and worked together effectively in the design and specification portion of the process then the actual contract price should not be a shock. It is the remodelers’ responsibility if at all possible to control the scope of the project to a level that works within your budget. That may mean giving up those custom cabinets for standard cabinets, a vinyl laminate floor instead of real hardwood, or Formica counter tops instead of granite.
Quality is never cheap and good research may seem like a headache. But see what an expensive headache really is by having a low ball bidder take the roof off your house, disconnect the plumbing from your house and leave no forwarding address as he skips out on the project.
Monday, March 8, 2010
Can I Knock Out This Wall?
I want to open up my kitchen to the living room and a friend told me to first check if it is load bearing? What is that and can I still do it if it is?
Load bearing walls are just that, they bear the load of floors/ceilings above and/or roofs. There are main or direct load bearing walls and tributary load bearing walls. In a simple design such as a basic rectangular ranch with a gable style roof the walls with the gutters bear most of the weight. The end or gable walls are for the most part non load bearing, but depending on interior framing they can be carrying roof load from the ridge. Another factor that determines load is if the roof was “stick built” or built with trusses. Stick built houses allow some of the roof weight to be transferred to interior walls, while truss built roofs transfer the load through their design to the exterior walls. In a house with a hip roof (gutters all sides) all exterior walls share some of the load. In simple designs there is usually a wall running down the center of the long axis of the house, and this is usually a load bearing wall because the ridge (centerline) of the roof is being directly supported by does the distinction between load and non load bearing walls. This is not a job for amateurs; I would strongly recommend hiring a professional to complete the structural part of this project. IA list of qualified and competent builders and remodelers can be obtained from your local Home Builders Association, or you can contact me and I will recommend someone in your area.
Load bearing walls are just that, they bear the load of floors/ceilings above and/or roofs. There are main or direct load bearing walls and tributary load bearing walls. In a simple design such as a basic rectangular ranch with a gable style roof the walls with the gutters bear most of the weight. The end or gable walls are for the most part non load bearing, but depending on interior framing they can be carrying roof load from the ridge. Another factor that determines load is if the roof was “stick built” or built with trusses. Stick built houses allow some of the roof weight to be transferred to interior walls, while truss built roofs transfer the load through their design to the exterior walls. In a house with a hip roof (gutters all sides) all exterior walls share some of the load. In simple designs there is usually a wall running down the center of the long axis of the house, and this is usually a load bearing wall because the ridge (centerline) of the roof is being directly supported by does the distinction between load and non load bearing walls. This is not a job for amateurs; I would strongly recommend hiring a professional to complete the structural part of this project. IA list of qualified and competent builders and remodelers can be obtained from your local Home Builders Association, or you can contact me and I will recommend someone in your area.
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Thermo Pane Window Seal Broken
I have some moisture inside the glass of my family room windows, what do I have to do to fix it?
If the moisture is trapped between the glass panes you have thermo pane style windows. Thermo pane windows are constructed of 2 pieces of glass banded together at the edges with a space between them. The air in that space is vacuumed out and in many cases replaced with a type of gas that retards the transfer of heat and cold. In time that seal can be broken allowing air to enter into that space and along with that air comes moisture. The only remedy is to replace the glass. Many window manufacturers offer replacement sashes. A sash is the glass and the surrounding frame. If you cannot find the manufacturer then try a company that installs shower doors and mirrors, they usually can get the replacement glass. If you prefer to contact me directly I can recommend someone to replace the glass for you.
If the moisture is trapped between the glass panes you have thermo pane style windows. Thermo pane windows are constructed of 2 pieces of glass banded together at the edges with a space between them. The air in that space is vacuumed out and in many cases replaced with a type of gas that retards the transfer of heat and cold. In time that seal can be broken allowing air to enter into that space and along with that air comes moisture. The only remedy is to replace the glass. Many window manufacturers offer replacement sashes. A sash is the glass and the surrounding frame. If you cannot find the manufacturer then try a company that installs shower doors and mirrors, they usually can get the replacement glass. If you prefer to contact me directly I can recommend someone to replace the glass for you.
Saturday, February 20, 2010
The Hole Holding The Door Hinge Won’t Hold The Screw Anymore
Solution: Remove the entire hinge plate. If there are only 2 hinges on the door you will have to remove the entire door. Take a ½” wood drill bit and drill out the hole to a depth of at least 1”. An easy way to gauge how far you have drilled is to measure up from the end of the drill bit the desired distance and place a piece of tape around the bit leaving the end sticking up in the air, so now when you drill just stop at the piece of tape. Putting the tape on the bit may stop some chips from coming out of the hole, so put the drill bit into the hole a couple times to clean it out. Now take a piece of ½” diameter wood dowel rod and very carefully with a utility knife cut a couple grooves into the length to help hold the glue. Now cut it 1/16” shorter than the hole you drilled. Squeeze some wood glue, Titebond or Elmer’s Wood Glue are great products, into the hole and spread some on the piece of wood dowel. Tap it into the hole until it is flush and immediately wipe the excess glue off with a damp rag. Let it dry overnight.
The next day carefully drill a pilot hole into the new wood and reinsert the screw. To gauge the size of the pilot hole hold the drill bit over the screw, if the bit is as big as the body of the screw , not the threads just the body, then you have the right size. If you are not sure you can test drill a hole into a scrap block of wood. Make sure you use oak or birch as they are hard wood like the dowel rod. If the other holes are just a little loose jamb a couple toothpicks into the hole before you screw them back in.
BONUS TIP: To make any screw go in easier run the threads through a bar of soap or some bees wax and then screw it in
The next day carefully drill a pilot hole into the new wood and reinsert the screw. To gauge the size of the pilot hole hold the drill bit over the screw, if the bit is as big as the body of the screw , not the threads just the body, then you have the right size. If you are not sure you can test drill a hole into a scrap block of wood. Make sure you use oak or birch as they are hard wood like the dowel rod. If the other holes are just a little loose jamb a couple toothpicks into the hole before you screw them back in.
BONUS TIP: To make any screw go in easier run the threads through a bar of soap or some bees wax and then screw it in
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Handy Tip: My bathroom door slowly closes by itself
Solution: This is a problem commonly found in older homes, although it can happen in newer homes too. The solution is really very simple. Remove one of the hinge pins, I would choose the center or bottom one. To remove the hinge pin you can take a 16p or 8p nail and insert it into the small hole in the bottom of the hinge and while holding the nail tap it with a hammer and it will drive the hinge pin upwards and out. Now take the hinge pin and your hammer to the basement or outside where you have a concrete slab. Lay the hinge pin on the ground and give it a slight tap in the middle causing it to bend slightly. Before you re-insert it wipe a little Vaseline on it and slide it back in using the hammer to tap it back in. Since you are here remove the other pin/s and lubricate them with Vaseline and reinsert them. That should solve the problem. If it doesn’t,remove another pin and repeat the process. Do not bend any one pin too much.
Any Questions? http://AskContractorJohn.Blogspot.com
Wednesday, February 17, 2010
Garbage Disposal Quick Fix
Ever have your garbage disposal jam and you have to put your hand down in there, or maybe you use a knife or spoon to try and free whatever is causing the jam. Did you know that on the bottom of the disposal unit there is an opening where you can insert an allen wrench which allows you to spin the disposal blades manually?
The proper size allen wrench always comes with the unit when new, but is easily lost. Typically a 1/4" allen wrench will fit into the opening, exactly in the middle of the bottom of the disposal. Just line up the sides of the wrench to the hole and insert it, then move it back and forth.
Make absolutely sure the electric is turned off before you insert the wrench and remember to remove it before you turn the electric back on. There is also a reset button located on the bottom of the disposal. If the disposal jams, the motor will shut off so as not to damage it. After about a minute you will be able to press the reset button, listen for the click.
The proper size allen wrench always comes with the unit when new, but is easily lost. Typically a 1/4" allen wrench will fit into the opening, exactly in the middle of the bottom of the disposal. Just line up the sides of the wrench to the hole and insert it, then move it back and forth.
Make absolutely sure the electric is turned off before you insert the wrench and remember to remove it before you turn the electric back on. There is also a reset button located on the bottom of the disposal. If the disposal jams, the motor will shut off so as not to damage it. After about a minute you will be able to press the reset button, listen for the click.
Any Questions AskContractorJohn.blogspot.com
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
Cement or Concrete Sidewalk?
Ever since I worked the summer of 1972 at Brandt's Redi-Mix in Oak Lawn Illinois I have shouted from the roof tops the difference between cement and concrete. Cement is the powder that you mix with sand, stone, and water to make concrete. So I don't have a cement driveway, I have a concrete driveway.
Now days you can buy premixed concrete at any home improvement, or hardware store, but you never know when you may have to mix your own.
A typical concrete mix is made up 1 part of cement, 2 parts of sand and 3 parts of aggregate, or stone. Mix these together completely and then add your water. Make sure to use water that is suitable for drinking, as impurities in the water can affect the setting of the concrete. Adding too little or too much water can also affect the ultimate setting time and the ultimate strength of the hardened concrete. The amount of water will vary but you can start with 1 gallon for the mixture above. If the sand is wet use a little less water.
There are exact measurements for mixing of concrete but for the average homeowner doing small projects the ratio above will work just fine.
Concrete does not dry it sets through a hydration process. When water and cement are mixed together it starts a chemical process and a byproduct of that process is heat which adds to the process. The hotter the environment the quicker it will set. There are accelerants and retarders that are added too concrete to make the setting time more workable.
They also add a liquid air product to the concrete to help with expansion and contraction issues and plasticizers to help it flow around objects when pouring on large jobs.
Another product that has been introduced into concrete is fly ash, basically what was a waste product of the coal industry is now a vital part of the concrete mixture, adding to its ultimate strength and workability and its use allows less water to be used.
If you were to look at the stone and sand particles under a microscope you would see the jagged edges don't fit too well together, introduce cement (the paste) to fill in and hold those 2 substances together. But you still have voids; add fly ash which is a smaller particle size than even cement and you can see it filling in the remaining voids. Simply put the more surfaces that are in contact the stronger the finished product.
If you have any questions just http://askcontractorjohn.blogspot.com/
Now days you can buy premixed concrete at any home improvement, or hardware store, but you never know when you may have to mix your own.
A typical concrete mix is made up 1 part of cement, 2 parts of sand and 3 parts of aggregate, or stone. Mix these together completely and then add your water. Make sure to use water that is suitable for drinking, as impurities in the water can affect the setting of the concrete. Adding too little or too much water can also affect the ultimate setting time and the ultimate strength of the hardened concrete. The amount of water will vary but you can start with 1 gallon for the mixture above. If the sand is wet use a little less water.
There are exact measurements for mixing of concrete but for the average homeowner doing small projects the ratio above will work just fine.
Concrete does not dry it sets through a hydration process. When water and cement are mixed together it starts a chemical process and a byproduct of that process is heat which adds to the process. The hotter the environment the quicker it will set. There are accelerants and retarders that are added too concrete to make the setting time more workable.
They also add a liquid air product to the concrete to help with expansion and contraction issues and plasticizers to help it flow around objects when pouring on large jobs.
Another product that has been introduced into concrete is fly ash, basically what was a waste product of the coal industry is now a vital part of the concrete mixture, adding to its ultimate strength and workability and its use allows less water to be used.
If you were to look at the stone and sand particles under a microscope you would see the jagged edges don't fit too well together, introduce cement (the paste) to fill in and hold those 2 substances together. But you still have voids; add fly ash which is a smaller particle size than even cement and you can see it filling in the remaining voids. Simply put the more surfaces that are in contact the stronger the finished product.
If you have any questions just http://askcontractorjohn.blogspot.com/
Waterproofing Options For Your Basement
Spring Showers bring more than May flowers, they also bring leaky basements. Let’s explore the construction of the typical basement wall and the best solutions for stopping leaks.
In the Midwest, basement walls are almost exclusively constructed from poured concrete. This concrete is poured in between forms which are typically held together by metal rods running through these forms. Once the concrete sets the forms are stripped away and the rods are snapped off flush with the concrete walls, the majority of the rod remaining in the wall.
The wall is then ready to be sealed. Typically the walls are damproofed, the area where each rod remains is spot patched with tar and then the entire wall is covered, often times by spraying with a tar like coating. This is called damproofing, not to be confused with waterproofing. Understand that this damproofing is a part of the system that keeps water from infiltrating your basement. Another critical part of this system is the drain tile. This is a 4” perforated corrugated flexible plastic pipe that is laid outside and alongside the footing (bottom of the foundation wall) typically in a loop ending at an enclosed pit that collects the water. When the water reaches a certain height in the pit a submersible pump then pumps the water out and away from your house.
A third and equally important part of this system is the proper grading of the ground surrounding your home. The ground should be gently sloped away from your home on all sides. Driveways and patios that have sunk over the years and now slope to the building are a delivery system for water into your basement.
When it rains the majority of the water should follow the slope away from the house. The remaining water will find its way down through the soil to the drain tile which gathers it and carries it to the pit where it is pumped up and away from the house. Problems occur when water runs down against the foundation and finds a crack or a rod that was not patched or after years of exposure has rusted sufficiently to allow water to travel alongside the rod, and into your basement.
Originally the foundation was sealed on the exterior and all surface type repairs should be done from the outside, which entails a lot of digging and landscape issues. Enter the epoxy repair. The repair crew will typically clean out the crack and starting at the bottom inject an epoxy into the crack moving injection points upwards approximately 12” at a time until it is full. This method is designed to stop the water before it gets near the inside of the wall and typically will come with a lifetime guarantee.
Another method employed is allowing the water to leak through the wall and immediately catching it in a membrane which is placed around the perimeter of the wall. The water is then channeled into a pit where it collects and can be pumped out. You will see this technique used a lot on older foundations where you have multiple leak points.
Lastly the most expensive remedy and far superior is waterproofing the exterior with a rubber membrane or a blanket that contains a type of product that expands and blocks water infiltration when it becomes wet, such as a Bentonite blanket. Of course this type of repair requires the entire exterior of the foundation be dug up down to the drain tile which can now be inspected, repaired, and/or replaced as needed. The foundation is cleaned of any dirt clinging to it, pressure washed and inspected from the outside. Spot repairing any suspect areas should be completed after inspection and then the blanket or membrane is installed. The wall is then backfilled with dirt compacting as you go. The landscaping should not be reinstalled at this point no matter what the visual condition of the ground is, because the ground will settle, sometimes dramatically.
There you have it. If you have any question please feel free to “http://AskContractorJohn.Blogspot.com
In the Midwest, basement walls are almost exclusively constructed from poured concrete. This concrete is poured in between forms which are typically held together by metal rods running through these forms. Once the concrete sets the forms are stripped away and the rods are snapped off flush with the concrete walls, the majority of the rod remaining in the wall.
The wall is then ready to be sealed. Typically the walls are damproofed, the area where each rod remains is spot patched with tar and then the entire wall is covered, often times by spraying with a tar like coating. This is called damproofing, not to be confused with waterproofing. Understand that this damproofing is a part of the system that keeps water from infiltrating your basement. Another critical part of this system is the drain tile. This is a 4” perforated corrugated flexible plastic pipe that is laid outside and alongside the footing (bottom of the foundation wall) typically in a loop ending at an enclosed pit that collects the water. When the water reaches a certain height in the pit a submersible pump then pumps the water out and away from your house.
A third and equally important part of this system is the proper grading of the ground surrounding your home. The ground should be gently sloped away from your home on all sides. Driveways and patios that have sunk over the years and now slope to the building are a delivery system for water into your basement.
When it rains the majority of the water should follow the slope away from the house. The remaining water will find its way down through the soil to the drain tile which gathers it and carries it to the pit where it is pumped up and away from the house. Problems occur when water runs down against the foundation and finds a crack or a rod that was not patched or after years of exposure has rusted sufficiently to allow water to travel alongside the rod, and into your basement.
Originally the foundation was sealed on the exterior and all surface type repairs should be done from the outside, which entails a lot of digging and landscape issues. Enter the epoxy repair. The repair crew will typically clean out the crack and starting at the bottom inject an epoxy into the crack moving injection points upwards approximately 12” at a time until it is full. This method is designed to stop the water before it gets near the inside of the wall and typically will come with a lifetime guarantee.
Another method employed is allowing the water to leak through the wall and immediately catching it in a membrane which is placed around the perimeter of the wall. The water is then channeled into a pit where it collects and can be pumped out. You will see this technique used a lot on older foundations where you have multiple leak points.
Lastly the most expensive remedy and far superior is waterproofing the exterior with a rubber membrane or a blanket that contains a type of product that expands and blocks water infiltration when it becomes wet, such as a Bentonite blanket. Of course this type of repair requires the entire exterior of the foundation be dug up down to the drain tile which can now be inspected, repaired, and/or replaced as needed. The foundation is cleaned of any dirt clinging to it, pressure washed and inspected from the outside. Spot repairing any suspect areas should be completed after inspection and then the blanket or membrane is installed. The wall is then backfilled with dirt compacting as you go. The landscaping should not be reinstalled at this point no matter what the visual condition of the ground is, because the ground will settle, sometimes dramatically.
There you have it. If you have any question please feel free to “http://AskContractorJohn.Blogspot.com
Monday, February 15, 2010
Building a Soffet Quickly and Easily
Many do it yourselfers tackle finishing a basement as a project. One of the challenges when remodeling a basement is building around those heat ducts or other low hanging objects. Some do it yourselfers take the time to build a small wall similiar to framing the perimeter wall, carefully nailing each piece together hoping the short pieces don't crack.
There is an easier way to build those soffets when you are remodeling your basement. Measure the distance from the bottom of the floor joist and the bottom of the low hanging object, making sure to measure in multiple locations as some objects are hung with a slope. Lets say the bottom of the heat duct is 10", now add 2" to your measured dimension, for a total of 12". Take a sheet of 1/2 plwwood, I strongly suggest you use OSB as it will not curl or cup as conventional plywood. Rip it to 12" and cut it to length. Take 2 pieces of 2x2 cut to the same length as the plywood and lay them across the saw horses and set the plywood on top of them pulling each 2x2 flush to each edge. I suggest using 1 5/8" drywall screws to attach the plywood to one of the 2x2's. Only attach 1 of the 2x2's to the plywood and set it aside.
Using a chalkline snap a line on the bottom of the floor joists flush with the outside edge of where the soffet needs to be installed and another line 1/2" back from that line. Nail or screw the remaining 2x2 to the inside line, the one you set back 1/2". After you have secured it to the floor joists above slide the plywood soffet panel you made earlier against the 2x2 lining it up with the outside line you snapped and secure it with 1 5/8" drywall screws.
Repeat the process for the other side if it is a 2 sided soffet. Using a level plumb both panels and draw a line on the intersecting wall. While holding the side panels to the plumb lines measure the distance between the bottom 2x2's and cut the necessary 2x4's to length using 16" o.c. measurements. Making your 16" o.c. on the outside plywood panels. Predrill 2 holes for each 2x4 and secure them with 3" or 3 1/2" drywall screws.
Remember the 2" you added, that was 1 1/2" for the 2x4 and 1/2" room to play space. You can cut a shim and slide it between each 2x4 and the duct, near mid span, and secure itwith a screw, making sure your soffet is plumb. Be sure to cover both sides of the shim with construction adhesive before you slide it into place as this will help to eliminate any future squeaking or duct flexing.
If your soffet span is longer than 8' I suggest you use a 10' - 2x2 or slide an 8' 2x2 past the end of the first piece of plywood by 2' and later fill in a 2' piece on the back end. This method will help to keep the joint straight.
Well, there you have it a straight and easy soffet, for your basement remodeling project. If you have any questions on any phase of remodeling or new construction feel free to use the comment section.
There is an easier way to build those soffets when you are remodeling your basement. Measure the distance from the bottom of the floor joist and the bottom of the low hanging object, making sure to measure in multiple locations as some objects are hung with a slope. Lets say the bottom of the heat duct is 10", now add 2" to your measured dimension, for a total of 12". Take a sheet of 1/2 plwwood, I strongly suggest you use OSB as it will not curl or cup as conventional plywood. Rip it to 12" and cut it to length. Take 2 pieces of 2x2 cut to the same length as the plywood and lay them across the saw horses and set the plywood on top of them pulling each 2x2 flush to each edge. I suggest using 1 5/8" drywall screws to attach the plywood to one of the 2x2's. Only attach 1 of the 2x2's to the plywood and set it aside.
Using a chalkline snap a line on the bottom of the floor joists flush with the outside edge of where the soffet needs to be installed and another line 1/2" back from that line. Nail or screw the remaining 2x2 to the inside line, the one you set back 1/2". After you have secured it to the floor joists above slide the plywood soffet panel you made earlier against the 2x2 lining it up with the outside line you snapped and secure it with 1 5/8" drywall screws.
Repeat the process for the other side if it is a 2 sided soffet. Using a level plumb both panels and draw a line on the intersecting wall. While holding the side panels to the plumb lines measure the distance between the bottom 2x2's and cut the necessary 2x4's to length using 16" o.c. measurements. Making your 16" o.c. on the outside plywood panels. Predrill 2 holes for each 2x4 and secure them with 3" or 3 1/2" drywall screws.
Remember the 2" you added, that was 1 1/2" for the 2x4 and 1/2" room to play space. You can cut a shim and slide it between each 2x4 and the duct, near mid span, and secure itwith a screw, making sure your soffet is plumb. Be sure to cover both sides of the shim with construction adhesive before you slide it into place as this will help to eliminate any future squeaking or duct flexing.
If your soffet span is longer than 8' I suggest you use a 10' - 2x2 or slide an 8' 2x2 past the end of the first piece of plywood by 2' and later fill in a 2' piece on the back end. This method will help to keep the joint straight.
Well, there you have it a straight and easy soffet, for your basement remodeling project. If you have any questions on any phase of remodeling or new construction feel free to use the comment section.
Adjust That Threshold to Save Energy Dollars
Saving energy can be really involved or it can be simple and inexpensive. Today we are going to talk about a couple things that are very inexpensive to do that will save energy which in turn will save you dollars.
The first tip we are going to discuss is how to adjust the threshold on your exterior door. The adjustable type thresholds we know today were patented around 1980 and are basically the same mechanically today. Of course materials have changed substantially. To see if it needs adjusting close the door and lay on the floor with your head sideways (ear to the ground) looking under the door. Visible light means you should adjust the threshold.
Open your door and you will see 4 or 5 large screw heads on top of the threshold. There may be plastic caps or even a vinyl strip covering them. If there is no protection the slots may be filled in with dirt. It is very important to clean them out so the screwdriver fits in correctly. The most effective way I have found is to use a utility knife to loosen the debris in the slots and then a can of compressed air, the kind you would use to clean your computer keyboard out. I you don’t have any compressed air you can blow through a drinking straw to remove the loose dirt.
Screwdrivers come in various sizes, make sure to use the largest one that will fit, which in this case will probably be a #3 (large) and most likely Phillips, although I have seen them in the slotted variety. When you are turning the screw make sure to put a lot of downward pressure on the screwdriver so it doesn’t slip out of the head and damage it. You will have to turn each screw about 3 full turns to get a 1/16” rise although this will vary depending on the manufacturer.Adjust the screws turning them one at a time and closing the door and checking for light. Do not turn them too much as this will cause excessive wear and make the door hard to close. If you used penetrating oil of any kind make sure you wipe it up as it will attract more dirt.
Now that you have adjusted the front door don’t forget about the back door and if you have an attached garage check that door too.
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