Handy Tip: My bathroom door slowly closes by itself

Solution: This is a problem commonly found in older homes, although it can happen in newer homes too. The solution is really very simple. Remove one of the hinge pins, I would choose the center or bottom one. To remove the hinge pin you can take a 16p or 8p nail and insert it into the small hole in the bottom of the hinge and while holding the nail tap it with a hammer and it will drive the hinge pin upwards and out. Now take the hinge pin and your hammer to the basement or outside where you have a concrete slab. Lay the hinge pin on the ground and give it a slight tap in the middle causing it to bend slightly. Before you re-insert it wipe a little Vaseline on it and slide it back in using the hammer to tap it back in. Since you are here remove the other pin/s and lubricate them with Vaseline and reinsert them. That should solve the problem. If it doesn’t,remove another pin and repeat the process. Do not bend any one pin too much.

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Garbage Disposal Quick Fix

Ever have your garbage disposal jam and you have to put your hand down in there, or maybe you use a knife or spoon to try and free whatever is causing the jam. Did you know that on the bottom of the disposal unit there is an opening where you can insert an allen wrench which allows you to spin the disposal blades manually?

The proper size allen wrench always comes with the unit when new, but is easily lost. Typically a 1/4" allen wrench will fit into the opening, exactly in the middle of the bottom of the disposal. Just line up the sides of the wrench to the hole and insert it, then move it back and forth.


Make absolutely sure the electric is turned off before you insert the wrench and remember to remove it before you turn the electric back on. There is also a reset button located on the bottom of the disposal. If the disposal jams, the motor will shut off so as not to damage it. After about a minute you will be able to press the reset button, listen for the click.

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Building a Soffet Quickly and Easily

Many do it yourselfers tackle finishing a basement as a project. One of the challenges when remodeling a basement is building around those heat ducts or other low hanging objects. Some do it yourselfers take the time to build a small wall similiar to framing the perimeter wall, carefully nailing each piece together hoping the short pieces don't crack.
There is an easier way to build those soffets when you are remodeling your basement. Measure the distance from the bottom of the floor joist and the bottom of the low hanging object, making sure to measure in multiple locations as some objects are hung with a slope. Lets say the bottom of the heat duct is 10", now add 2" to your measured dimension, for a total of 12". Take a sheet of 1/2 plwwood, I strongly suggest you use OSB as it will not curl or cup as conventional plywood. Rip it to 12" and cut it to length. Take 2 pieces of 2x2 cut to the same length as the plywood and lay them across the saw horses and set the plywood on top of them pulling each 2x2 flush to each edge. I suggest using 1 5/8" drywall screws to attach the plywood to one of the 2x2's. Only attach 1 of the 2x2's to the plywood and set it aside.
Using a chalkline snap a line on the bottom of the floor joists flush with the outside edge of where the soffet needs to be installed and another line 1/2" back from that line. Nail or screw the remaining 2x2 to the inside line, the one you set back 1/2". After you have secured it to the floor joists above slide the plywood soffet panel you made earlier against the 2x2 lining it up with the outside line you snapped and secure it with 1 5/8" drywall screws.
Repeat the process for the other side if it is a 2 sided soffet. Using a level plumb both panels and draw a line on the intersecting wall. While holding the side panels to the plumb lines measure the distance between the bottom 2x2's and cut the necessary 2x4's to length using 16" o.c. measurements. Making your 16" o.c. on the outside plywood panels. Predrill 2 holes for each 2x4 and secure them with 3" or 3 1/2" drywall screws.
Remember the 2" you added, that was 1 1/2" for the 2x4 and 1/2" room to play space. You can cut a shim and slide it between each 2x4 and the duct, near mid span, and secure itwith a screw, making sure your soffet is plumb. Be sure to cover both sides of the shim with construction adhesive before you slide it into place as this will help to eliminate any future squeaking or duct flexing.
If your soffet span is longer than 8' I suggest you use a 10' - 2x2 or slide an 8' 2x2 past the end of the first piece of plywood by 2' and later fill in a 2' piece on the back end. This method will help to keep the joint straight.
Well, there you have it a straight and easy soffet, for your basement remodeling project. If you have any questions on any phase of remodeling or new construction feel free to use the comment section.

Adjust That Threshold to Save Energy Dollars

Saving energy can be really involved or it can be simple and inexpensive. Today we are going to talk about a couple things that are very inexpensive to do that will save energy which in turn will save you dollars.


The first tip we are going to discuss is how to adjust the threshold on your exterior door. The adjustable type thresholds we know today were patented around 1980 and are basically the same mechanically today. Of course materials have changed substantially. To see if it needs adjusting close the door and lay on the floor with your head sideways (ear to the ground) looking under the door. Visible light means you should adjust the threshold.


Open your door and you will see 4 or 5 large screw heads on top of the threshold. There may be plastic caps or even a vinyl strip covering them. If there is no protection the slots may be filled in with dirt. It is very important to clean them out so the screwdriver fits in correctly. The most effective way I have found is to use a utility knife to loosen the debris in the slots and then a can of compressed air, the kind you would use to clean your computer keyboard out. I you don’t have any compressed air you can blow through a drinking straw to remove the loose dirt.

Screwdrivers come in various sizes, make sure to use the largest one that will fit, which in this case will probably be a #3 (large) and most likely Phillips, although I have seen them in the slotted variety. When you are turning the screw make sure to put a lot of downward pressure on the screwdriver so it doesn’t slip out of the head and damage it. You will have to turn each screw about 3 full turns to get a 1/16” rise although this will vary depending on the manufacturer.

If the screw won’t turn, you can these remedies. Set the screwdriver in the slot and tap the screwdriver handle with a hammer (tapping on a wooden handle screwdriver may cause it to crack) and try it again. You can hit the screw about ½ as hard as it would take to drive a nail into a block of wood. If this doesn’t work try spraying some WD-40 or penetrating oil onto the screw head and let it sit as per the instructions on the can. A tip to keep the oil on the screw head is to place a cotton ball on the top of the screw head and soak the cotton ball with the oil and let it sit. Of course you will have to wait until it gets warmer for that.


Adjust the screws turning them one at a time and closing the door and checking for light. Do not turn them too much as this will cause excessive wear and make the door hard to close. If you used penetrating oil of any kind make sure you wipe it up as it will attract more dirt.


Now that you have adjusted the front door don’t forget about the back door and if you have an attached garage check that door too.